A Food Lover's Journey: Ice-cream in Winter

Thursday, June 17, 2010 - Another week has flown by, and here in Melbourne, the weather has been its usual unpredictable self – a cocktail of rain, cold gusts, and unexpected sunshine. The fleeting nature of time resonates with the fleeting appearance of quince in late autumn, early winter, prompting culinary creativity in the kitchen.

The Inspiration Behind Spiced Quince Ice-Cream

This year, instead of the go-to slow-poached quince, our creative impulses led us down a different path. Inspired by a recipe from 'Arabsque' by Claudia Roden, the idea took a turn when the quinces, instead of becoming a vessel for mincemeat, transformed into a fortuitous mishap – they burst open, cozily soft from their time in the slow oven.

The Allure of Ice-Cream in Winter

For those questioning the sanity of making ice-cream when the chill is in the air, let it be known that it is in these unorthodox moments that the palate discovers new favorites. Ice-cream is not just a summer affair; it is a comfort that knows no season, especially with a flavor as nostalgic and warming as spiced quince.

Spiced Quince Ice-Cream Recipe

Preliminary Steps

Let's delve into creating this masterful twist on a winter classic. The recipe stems from the fundamental ice-cream base, elevated by a tapestry of cinnamon and nutreatmeg, with the salient ingredient being the sweetly perfumed quince.

For the Ice-Cream Base:

• 500ml pouring cream
• 250ml milk
• 2.5 cinnamon quills
• Freshly grated nutmeg to taste
• 4 egg yolks
• 60g caster sugar
• 35g brown sugar

Crafting the Base:

1. In a medium pot, warm the cream, milk, cinnamon, and nutmeg over medium heat until it nearly boils. Stir frequently to prevent scalding.
2. Off the heat, let the spices infuse with the cream for 10 minutes.
3. Whisk egg yolks with both sugars until the mixture appears pale and has thickened.
4. Gradually add the infused cream to the yolk mixture while whisking.
5. Pour all back into the pot. Heat over low, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickly coats the back of a spoon.
6. Sieve into a bowl and let cool. Refrigerate overnight.

For the Quince Mixture:

• 2 medium quinces
• Honey to taste

Preparing the Fruit:

1. After washing the quinces, bake them at 180°C until they're tender.
2. Cool them, peel, remove the seeds, and then mash the flesh with honey. For a smoother ice-cream, sieve the mixture.

Assembling the Ice-Cream

• Churn the chilled cream base in an ice cream machine as per the manufacturer's instructions.
• Once thickened, fold in the quince mixture and transfer to a container to freeze.
• To serve, take out the ice-cream 10 minutes prior to softening. Serving suggestion: garnish with crushed pistachios for an added crunch.

This Spiced Quince Ice-Cream recipe celebrates the joy of winter produce and the warmth of spices, making it a delightful dessert to savor during the colder months. Prepare to indulge in a dish that perfectly encapsulates a food lover's journey through the seasons.